These let you direct magnetic downforce so that on the straights it is minimal for greater speed and in the turns increases with drift off centerline for greater traction. Repeater Gatling pea Torchwood Tallnut with pumpkin lilipad For the extra slots you can put anything else. Plant vs Zombie.
Then please send me the corrected article to my email id. I will be happy to take care of you. On the Left side of the Entrance of Pizza restaurant there is a small way near the side of a building. This car will be available at almost all the time during Game Play. You can also perform Vigilante Missions in it. If you found any mistakes or for more queries please do not hesist to mail me p.
I will be happy to serve you. Ash For some rare vehicles,additional task can be done other than carrying you to other places. A vehicle called "packer" can store cars in it. Ash I've found a car on san andreas that have a Big size it's name is Dumper. Girlfriend's Cars: The bug occurs near CJ's house. I bought in the northwest of ballas territory when it comes to fighting turf, not too far from the beach and ammuNation. While fighting a turf war normally there are 3 waves, ie you survive the first wave and then the second and when you survive the third "the hood is yours".
The trouble occurs near Jefferson's neighborhood as you drive to a nearby drive to take territory. While standing on rooftops, I survive the first wave of attacks but as I shoot a lot of Ballas a couple of them run away from me and are noted as purple triangles and squares in the green grove street territory. If I wander too far from the Flashing Red "contested territory" I get a message saying to "get back into the war zone".
I have stood in the war zone for 20 minutes only to just stand there with nobody coming after me, hence if I leave the war zone I don't get to win that area because after a couple minutes I lose it. Therefore I cannot simply go way out of the warzone and chase down the enemies.
It is a glitch because there is no way to win the territory. Dhruw To easy passing the villigant mission go to safe house which contains a garrage. Put your police vehicle there and turn the mission on. Secret interiors: Enable the rocketman code to spawn a Jetpack. Go to the entrance and fly up until you exit out the top.
Then, fly to the east two blocks. You will see a yellow marker. Land around the marker and take off the Jetpack. Walk into the marker and you will be in a secret room. It resembles a hotel or strip club. Then enable the rocketman code again and use the Jetpack to fly up and look around. Next to that room, you will see another.
Fly to it and look for the entrance. Fly to it and you can fly around the level. Modify vehicle characteristics: You will find a list of all the vehicles and a description of each multiplier factor. You can modify the acceleration, top speed, mass, monetary value, transmission, gravity center, and much more. Tommy Vercetti Cameo: Delete the extracted file if you want things back to normal. Go to the file character You will find the code for the character known in the game as C.
But if you want good old Vercetti back, then change the three digit number from 0 1 1 to 1 0 0. This should change the character. Edit the file. Just Edit like: When you walk your health will be doubled. When you get in a car you will get full driving skill. When you get bicycle in a you will get cycling skill. When you get in a plane you will get full flying skill and recieve a pilot license.
When you get in a bike you will get full bike skill. And also you will get hitman level in all weapons. But it only works when u r trying any misssion again and again and u r not able to comlete it Hint: Ayush Baid When you go to any pizza place or burger shot eat more and more and you start warmthing. When the race begins,don't speed up, just watch all cars fly in the air away from racing zone. Then slowly win the race. Maintain a slow speed or your car will also fly.
This will not work in case of bikes. Santosh In the mission explosive settlement from Four dragons casino,, you are asked to collect the dynamites before they get exploded. But if you will kill the person who's going to explode the dynamites,, the timer will disappear,,and then you can collect them easily. Aky No need to go to the niko.
It is so far. Try These Out. Sudipto When you get stuck in the low rider challenge,just before entering the red marker type "slow it down" without quotes. The arrows which come in will become a lot slower than normal and opposition can be easily beaten by scoring higher points. Mission Successful. But do not waste the low rider car keep it for the next level. Go to CJ' s garage and keep it in. Then save it. Cesar Vialpando will i. CV will appear in the map Big Smoke: Wrong Side of the Tracks: Lipinkumar I think this is the easiest way to do the mission.
It seems that Big Smoke is not an expert in shooting. If CJ could help, all the four guys will be down quickly. CJ should try to finish the guy standing at the very front, he is the toughest person for Big Smoke. Modify characteristics of things you can buy: Use a text editor to edit the "shopping. You will find a list of all the items you can buy in the game such as cars, clothes, haircuts, tattoos, food, weapons.
This also shows the effect on your fat, health, stamina, respect and sexiness. You can modify the fat, health, stamina, respect and sexiness by changing the numbers beside each item. Invincible car: Enable the jcnruad code while CJ is on foot. Then, enter a vehicle and enter the cheat code again to disable it.
Your vehicle is now invincible. After you get out of the vehicle, it may or may not stay invincible. Occasionally the car will become vulnerable again for no apparent reason, but most of the time it stays invulnerable. Flying car: Get a PCR and drive directly into another car. You should fly off your bike directly on top of the other car and it will fly away with C. Croupier mission: Invisible tow ropes: Your trailer will turn into the nearest car as if you were towing it with invisible towing ropes.
Modify population cycle: Use a text editor to edit the "popcycle. You will find a list of all the different types of locations in the game, such as the airport. You can edit the number of different types of pedestrians in a place in a specific time period by changing the numbers beside each item.
For example, you can change the amount of cops at the beach on a weekday at noon and increase the amount of beach folks or farmers. Modify gang reactions: Use a text editor to edit the "ped. You will find a list of the different types of characters in the game. Change the way the other gangs react to your gang. Your gang is "GANG2". Beside "Respect" under each gang, enter the gang you want them to respect or hate.
To find a list of what gang numbers represent each gang refer to the "pedgrp. Stand on Hydra's wing: Then, monitor it for a while so it does not over or under balance, and it remains pointing up by itself. After that, leave the Hydra, but do not touch anything. You should be standing on the wing of a Hydra that should still be flying up, faster because of the thrusters.
You can jump off at anytime to continue the rest of the code. You will see that the vehicle has no scracthes or any damage anyway. Bhaumik If you want to change your skills or progress you have made just go to your my document folder then to Grand theft auto san andreas user files then open STATs.
Aswin A S Email: But taking photos of you with the help of your gang members will not be counted. If you would like to edit this tip, or if you found any mistakes in this, kindly Copy this and correct and then send to my e-mail id. Take your own photos: Then make gang members pointing gun towards them and pressing 'G'.
By pressing the tab another message will appear and then press the tab once again. Thus you can have your photos and enjoy. Car is now Rocket: Then you can see that the car is moving like a rocket with a tremendous velocity. How is this? Vatsal Chanana Go to las venturas airport and you will see a garage there. Fly it and enjoy.
Cheat for go another country: Millie will call you to get the card! This is the biggest cheat in San Andreas: Finish the Vigilante Missions Easily: Anytime the player accesses an indoor environment and then returns outside during this sub-mission the target s with self-destruct automatically. This means no more messy pursuing. Fast Reload: It will now have a full magazine. This trick doesn't work if you are reloading at the time of switching as you will have to let Carl reload it when you switch back.
Flying Tips: Most players make the mistake of steering with the main flaps and not the rudder; the former are the flaps on the wings and the latter is the flap on the tail. The big difference is that steering with the former gives the player a tighter turning radius but with less precise control; the latter restricts your controls greatly and so is less popularly used.
Try a combination of the two: The rudder will act to stabilize your plane and return control to you. Also, know which camera to use. The default camera during flight should be the one trailing the plane that gives the widest field of view so that you can easily see where you are going as well as your relative position to the ground.
The First person camera is good to use when doing the barrel roll or when using the Hydra to dogfight. Viswanath Keerthi In gta san andreas go to babera house make love with him to impress her more she will ask to take me a dinner,fast food,etc take him in the maverick so she will be very happy.
Easy mission "Vertical Bird": Omega This mission isn't too hard. But there's an easy way to complete this mission: After get in the Hydra there are 2 or 3 Hydras chasing after you. Don't Worry, just find some where surrounded with rocky mountain to land the plane the desert is quite good. Then get out of the plane quickly.
Keep a distance from the plane. Watch the radar and you'll see 2 red marks will disappear I guess they're 2 planes destroyed by their own rockets. The last redmark is the last Hydra. You should watch cuaze it's quite fun: After several hits it will catch fire and "go boom".
Get in The plane to find the location of the agency boats, get out then destroy the boats using rocket launcher or minigun. The last thing you have to do is flying home. Get out of the plane quickyly or some rocket will hit the plane or you. If the last plane is not destroyed simply take it down by using Minigun or rocket launcher Hint: Omega My favourite weapon in this ganme is the barrel Shotgun I don't remember its name but it is shorter than other shotguns.
This weapon is real fast and powerful. With this you can kill the target in short distance without cause damage to your health. Finding some rare car in Export car mission: Some cars will appear many before the exportin mission but after startin the mision they are almost impossible to find.
I recommend to save before the mission start, then watch the list of cars. Load save, store some rare cars that you can't find them easily such as Sentinel, Stafford, Journey ect. A foor doors car which can be found at the the tv studio not far from the "Vinewood" Sign.
A white RV. Sometime park at bar in the country side but when the export mission starts you have to look it up in the country road. Can be found in the moutain country or at the westcoast of San Fierro. It will apear a lot. The Euros is under the sphinx. Easy to find in Las Venturas at night.
Appear alot in the Northest area of Las Venturas Hint: Liberty city: Go in the Gym and kill all the peolp inside. Out for Non Soild Street. Not the Whole State Itself. Easy money: Go to the highest building in Los Santos, the circular one, and jump off using either the motorcycle or bike. While you are in mid-air, you can spin for a little bit or try to do a back flip.
Planes with two person capacity: There are actually many aircraft that can hold two people. His health will remain constant, without him needing to eat. You can leave the PlayStation2 idling in this state to accumulate money easily. The one in the Montgomery are is ideal because it is near to the save point where you have to do the four missions for Catalina. Save your game, then go to the betting shop and bet all your money on a horse.
You will not win every time. When you lose, reload your last saved game. Quick reload: Your ammunition must be 1 to At the brush spring end we cut just short of where the wicking ends — we only want the barest minimum of solder here to prevent the shunt from unravelling itself. Next add a spot of oil just below the soldered end and allow it to wick in — this will help prevent further solder wicking in to it when we solder it to the tab.
Next solder tin the tab — do this before attempting to solder the shunt in place. Next hold the shunt wire just below the solder with needle nose pliers or tweezers — this is also to stop further wicking — and then quickly solder it to the end of the tab closest to the motor — this to leave the remainder of the tab available for the leadwire without unsoldering the shunt lead and risk further wicking. Next route the free end to the brush and secure with the brush spring.
Ensure there is free play in the shunt and that it is not going to foul anything — particularly as the brushes wear. Also remember that crosswire will foul the brush hood before the spring does — so keep an eye on brush wear. Posted 13 July - Is it an improvement? Below — back to back trials with and without the shunts. The middle What this shows was there was a gain in power of 3.
The true gain from the shunt itself was 1. Brush Hoods. Above is a Mura motor with solid tube hood sleeves, shunt leads, and enlarged heat sink plates. Magnet Position. Will moving my magnets closer to the armature improve my power and performance? For a standard motor the short answer is no. You need to understand what is going on - the resistance of the winding is very low, about 0. This is a simplified explanation — the truth is a little more complicated relating to the impeadance of the electromagnet — it is in fact an AC device — notwithstanding that this is a DC motor - the individual poles are being constantly switched back and forth at relatively high frequencies.
The expanding magnetic bubble also resists the incoming voltage. So if you move your magnets in you will increase the field strength and the reaction voltage will happen sooner - at lower revs. But that is not the end of the story. Any change in magnet strength or position must go hand in glove with an appropriate "wind".
If we were to increase torque at the expense of revs then we get no overall gain in power. That said — with an appropriate wind — it will certainly give improved performance. OK, you didn't listen and want to mess with your magnets anyway Shimming your Magnets. Reducing this air gap will increase the effective field strength by eliminating some of the reluctance of the air gap. Shimming your magnets with epoxy will accomplish almost nothing as the permeability of epoxy is the same as air — all you will have accomplished is to move the gap from one side of the magnet to the other.
There is a very small improvement due to the proximity of the can at the sides. It could well turn out that in your motor this method works better than mine — I am more concerned that you understand what you are trying to achieve. Steel shim stock from an engineering supplier is OK but less than desirable.
Any laminations from motors. The next problem is how far are you going to shim? These motors typically have 0. You will note that the curvature of original equipment magnets does not match the armature - even allowing for clearance. This is not a mistake, the pole piece is really not working all that well at the outer edges and increasing the field strength at the outer edges will amplify the under-brush shorting problems that I mentioned earlier.
See further notes on this later. If you shim up 0. This will exaggerate the radial error see picture later and unduly focus the magnetic field towards the center. To overcome this you need to shim about 0. To further complicate matters — the inner and outer radii of the bent shim are the same — so its thickness varies.
The 0. You also want to keep the honed bore shape uniform. Parallel and highly polished. The tiny clearance can also become easily fouled. Polishing both the armature and the magnet will result in reduced aerodynamic drag - but the reduced airflow and turbulence will result in less cooling. Having said that, a great deal of the heat is still transferred to the can and the small gap assists this, so I can't say I've ever seen this to be a major problem.
The thickness error mentioned earlier is visible in the picture above where the shim is drawn a constant thickness. Refer to step 3 earlier. With the motor on a shaft, dial gauge the OD of the can — if the bush is off-center you can enlarge its mounting hole — turn up a suitable plugging mandrel to fit the can or between the magnets to hold the bush aligned for soldering. You can also mount it in a four-jaw chuck or collet chuck on a lathe and machine an undersized soldered in bush to true dead center, etc.
If you want a simpler shimming method, you can do it with epoxy filled with iron filings or my own personal preference - magnet dust. Given the problems of shim fit up this method works surprisingly well. Grind against a diamond wheel on a bench grinder — attach a NIB magnet to the work rest to catch all the filings. Mix a quality slow curing epoxy and add filings until it forms a thick paste — add as much powder as you can.
Use this to glue the magnets in place — use a dummy armature blank or an old armature — depending on your required final position — trim excess after cure. Apply release agent to can and magnets if you want to be able to remove or trim simply after doing this — you can always superglue into place later.
This simplifies rectification if you make a complete hash of it. If you have access to a lathe you can first coat the magnets and then trim them to size which is what I do: I next apply the paste to the back of my magnet pair and allow it to cure, then I trim the ends and sides with a file and finally turn the OD on a mandrel specially made for the job. Shown is a home-turned endbell — hone does not always fit into the brush hood end — easy enough to knock up if you have a lathe.
The crosswise magnet retaining tabs have been hammered flat — to bend them in over the shimmed magnets needs tooling — simply bending will likely crack or chip the magnets. I just place a blob of solder on the inside as a retainer and hope the epoxy does its job. These are available in different sizes from most US slot car parts suppliers.
You need to specify size — typically 0. I used to use a light oil or paraffin — water seems just as good and far less bother. This gives you a perfectly symmetrical bore. Magnets are made by sintering various materials into shape materials such as ferrite, nickel, iron, neodymium, boron, samarium, cobalt, etc. Sintering consists of first mixing these materials as a very fine powder consistency of talcum powder followed by compaction into a die under immense pressure followed by heat treatment in a controlled atmosphere furnace typically a vacuum or reduction atmosphere to fuse some or all of the materials together.
At this point the blank has no magnetic field. Usually the pole pieces focus down to the blank and the tips conform to the shape of the blank re: Magnet Zappers for slot cars typically consist of a coil and the motor can, magnets, and core blank are placed in the center of the coil. Below a typical slot car zapper — note plastic holder for the motor can axle side — North — up. Can and holder are then loaded into the coil.
On firing the zapper an immense pulse of electrical energy from a capacitor is discharged into windings around this magnetic circuit - briefly introducing a very large magnetic field — this permanently polarises the magnetic blank s. Zapper above produces 25,G for 1. Typically this saturates the blank to its maximum magnetized state. Its maximum magnetic strength therefore depends on the material it was made from in the first place. For slot car motors the ferrite-ceramic is typically used, as the NIB type although more powerful are much more likely to fade in the presence of heat, mechanical shock, and the alternating fields of the armature.
Magnetic Failure in a Slot Car Motor. The motor magnets are subjected to heat in use as well as heat from soldering into place and the magnetic influences of the armature whirling away inside of them — this has the tendency to demagnetise the magnets over time. You place it on the shelf and two years later in desperate need of a motor you press it back into service to find its now working well again perhaps not as good as it once was but certainly better than when you shelved it.
What has happened is that the magnetic field has realigned itself while sitting idle. It might realign but it will never regain its strength. Such a motor would be rejuvenated by zapping its magnets. Magnet Zapping. Commercially-available magnet zappers are available for remagnetizing slot car magnets.
This can generally be done in a number of ways: With this type of zapper you do not have the ability to zap a mounted or assembled motor never a good idea in any case — but they are way cheaper and more convenient to carry around than a hard pole type which typically weigh kg. The iron slug may be a simple best fit round bar or a dual radius profiled slug the inner radii do not share a common centre.
The best fit round bar leaves air gaps at the outer edges so the magnetic field is focussed towards the centre — which is generally good — but the overall magnetic strength may be reduced due to the outer edges not saturating. A conformal plug will produce a straight through field which will be stronger overall be but not focussed towards the middle where it will do the most good.
The best fit round bar is in my opinion the best method as its simplicity outweighs any dubious advantage. Mild steel is a poor substitute but it works fine on ferrite-ceramic types. The clamps may conform to the outer radius and the core to the inner radius — for little or no air gap. With this type of zapper the magnets can be zapped in the can, out of the can, singly, or in pairs or even the whole motor — in some cases even if soldered into the chassis if access permits.
Worse, a pair produced in two goes may have field misalignment and focus problems so its safer to do magnets as matched pairs. With this method you have the iron can and the air gaps to the rotor to interfere with your magnetic circuit as well as the limited saturation of the armature — so you will probably not achieve saturation of your magnets.
Also the three-pole armature can never align properly with the two pole magnets so the resulting field will be somewhat out of shape see diagram later. This method is not recommended other than as an emergency measure — however if it works well, then it works. From the above it can be seen that using conformal pole pieces and slugs creates the potential for a far stronger magnetic circuit by eliminating air gaps.
Clearly there is yet another trade off at work here as to how much focussing is beneficial to the trade off loss of overall magnetic field strength. Equally clearly this can be adjusted by the shape of the clamping and core pieces — your guess is as good as mine! The EMP electromagnetic pulse given off when the zapper is fired is potentially hazardous.
Remove your digital watch, cellphone, iPad, magstripe or chip and pin credit cards to a safe distance — typically more than 3m away preferably behind a steel shield. If you do this, correct by rezapping twice the right way around — as one zap may not fully coerce the field reversal — similarly if you elect to keep the accidental reversal you should also zap it a second time for the same reason. A good zapper should be able to completely reverse the magnetic field with one zap.
Quad Pole Multipole Magnets. The armature, clearance, and radius mismatch all have a role to play here. More on this later. What should be obvious is that you cannot zap multiple pole pieces without first dismantling them and individually zapping opposing pairs before reassembly they are usually epoxied together or into place with special epoxy.
A PITB! So these are normally purchased from a manufacturer already built up — often already in a can. If you zap an assembled multipole you will turn it back into a single made up of many parts but nonetheless a single. The same would be required for zapping assembled multipoles. Since your zapper will have limited power we want to get as much out of this as possible — so use high permeability iron, make the non-concentric outer radii to suit the best fit diameter is less than optimum here but you can do that for expediency.
In the RH drawing the material to be removed is shaded in green. Particularly note the two crescent slivers because of the magnet face radius being bigger than the blank radius — non-coherent centres. Obviously if you have honed out your magnets this does not apply; the magnet inner radii are true to the centerline. At each step, zap a pair of magnets and then reverse zap — if it reverses from full forward to full field reversal then you are OK and can take off more material but eventually you will run into trouble you will need a Gaussmeter to check.
If your zapper could not effect a field reversal in the first place then there is something wrong with it — replace or uprate it. Above photo — plain and focussed zapping core plugs — standing on a graph of back to back motor trials which show no significant difference in output power. However the focussed field was much more sensitive to changes to advance and retard — see advanced motor testing later.
The focussed field motor ran to 67, RPM at What should be apparent is that focussing the field is advantageous but is a smaller advantage than you might think. The illustration on the left should also explain why zapping a motor with the armature in place instead of a round blank will never produce an equal and opposite pair of magnets. That said, remember the motor was originally built for a certain wind and that has been taken into account one would presume but it does allow you to get more out of your existing magnets — same cautions on appropriateness of winds.
It is also possible to do all this work and suffer diminished performance, which is a serious bummer. As a rule of thumb I would suggest that when using a standard armature, even a blueprinted one, then it is not worth doing anything to your magnets other than zapping. However for some of the more serious winds, like the PSB displayed earlier, I reckon its almost mandatory that you up your magnetic performance. My final caveat on this subject: Gauss refers to the strength of the magnetic field produced by a magnet — its magnetic flux density.
Meters are available but you can also jerry-rig using compasses or use the pull off force of a steel ball and fishing scale, etc. As pointed out after zapping a magnet will almost certainly be saturated and therefore at its strongest. What we are concerned with is are our magnets a matching pair and are they stronger or weaker than what we normally use or are they better or worse after zapping, etc.
In other words we only need a comparative value rather than an exact scientific result. A simple alternate method is to lay an iron rod — same diameter as inside radius of magnet but too heavy to be lifted by the magnet - on a digital weighing scale — zero the scale — attach the magnet to the middle of the bar and slowly pull it off — the scale will go further and further negative — note the reading in grams at which the magnet comes loose and record this force as an indicator of its strength.
Since this is absolutely only a comparative value, it is imperative that you keep this iron bar for all future measurements. Next we should want to keep matched pairs together; two magnets in a motor are almost certainly made from the same batch of mixed powders and were zapped as a pair.
The same would not hold true for magnets made years apart. We might find a range of values and after zapping re-match those that most closely match each other. Pack into containers and label their values. Now we can try a range from weaker to stronger to see which produce the best results on a given armature.
Refer to earlier comments re: I 2 R losses to resistance of the windings — can be reduced by using the thickest wire you can get on for the number of required turns. The only other alternative is silver wire. Motors with thinner laminations and short stack lengths will lose less power to this phenomenon.
U navoidable in three-pole motors but can be reduced by correct brush material, spring setting, and correct alignment of brushes. Unfortunately that means you need to also be able to measure the outcome. Typically this has meant testing against the clock on the track — the problem with that is it is hugely subjective and if like me your driving abilities vary and the difference is small you will not really be able to tell.
This was an awful lot of effort to build, is a PITB to drag around, and is totally analogue. While it works, it only gives you brief glimpses and no output data. Yeah, you can note down a bunch of readings but being a braked dyno it can convert a motor to smoke real quick. I now use this: How do I know it works? It delivers repeatable results — re: You can print the graphics above which have been subject to smoothing algorythms — the raw data view is also available as well as a raw data download to the desktop which can be pasted into Excel, etc.
It works by accelerating a known inertial mass aluminium disk and monitoring the volts, amps, and acceleration via photocells and four holes in the disk then calculates torque, power, and efficiency which it displays alongside the amps in the graphics which can be archived in a built-in database. You can superimpose graphics to compare the differences from any changes you have made. I am completely blown away by this elegant piece of kit — not cheap but a lot less than I spent building my own and one helluva lot better.
Toaster oven temp. Set to degrees for 5 min. With arm on a cookie sheet. And a very slight twist with two rags, until you felt resistance. That's old school but it worked for me back in the day. Tried to add 7 to 10 degrees. I would lay my brushes side by side to camber to get them equal. Then just reverse one Brush hoods can actually be twisted in opposite directions up on neg With a little twist using the brush hood alignment tool and practice it'll work.
You can remove the brush hoods, you'll see the plastic spacers that align the hoods to the endbell. Now the hoods will slide up or down. Of course the more you file off the spacers the more advancing you can achieve Posted 14 July - I only saw one thing I would question.
When you file the first third off the side of each brush and install the filed side as the trailing edge it doesn't change the timing it only reduces the brush overlap and by doing so it eliminates the underbrush shorts that cause "push starts" and reduces heat. The only way I know to increase the timing using the brushes only is to advance the leading edge of the brush by repositioning the brush hoods. Installing the filed edge of the brush as the leading edge only retards timing and has no affect on overlap.
I would have to agree with Fast Freddie, I always thought the only way to advance the timing was to rotate the brushes in relation to the field only. Parma hoods make this easy since they are so sloppy. This info is too good. Took some of us decades to amass this info. Kind of like the magician that has the mask and gives up a lot of secrets but not all of them.
Kudos to his efforts so lets get building. Awesome article, everything to get started on building and tuning motors. Lots of detail. Not all of it accurate. As Fred and Chris mention, you can't advance or retard your timing by just trimming the brushes. Also a shunt with a built-in pigtail being superior is silly. The spring pressure eliminates any resistance that will make a difference in actual track performance.
And on anything other than a G7, you won't see a loss in performance by not using shunt wires. I've seen G27 motors numerous times get a shunt pulled out of place in a bad crash, dangling in mid-air, and didn't see a loss of speed.
And I'm glad to see the author's cavalier attitude toward motor seals got edited out. Send all USPS packages and mail to: All principles are sound and should be adhered to. But there are some instances where there's more than one way to skin a cat. All princpals are sound and should be adhered to. I always thought shunt wire was used for the purpose to keep heat off the motor springs. We were told there would be no way a motor without shunt wires could compete with motors that had shunt wires.
We proved that was not the case at that particular race. It did help, motors didn't run hot on that particular track. Posted 15 July - We raced out of the same box, so no motors had shunts, so we could both use any motor. We both did well in our respective classes. I would use a small shunt in Retro, if allowed just to keep from that collapsed spring, that I have seen. It's rare but does happen Thumper, what did your father tell you?
Be careful not to get solder into the bore of the bush — if you do the bush is useless and it will have to be replaced. If your rules permit it, replace this with a ball bearing — also solder in place. Place a drop of cyanoacrylate "superglue" in the endbell and push the bush solidly back into place. Get a drop of superglue onto a piece of scrap copper wire and use that as a probe to apply the superglue — this way you can avoid over-glueing.
Here I am using a 2mm die ejector pin available from engineering suppliers like Toolquip — you can obviously just use the armature — to check that it spins freely. If it is tight try to find out which end is causing the problem and use the pin to flex into place — you may end up resoldering or reglueing to cure the problem — Do not use the armature as a prybar.
Here you must use a 2. See later — info section on motors and timing. You should also be checking the fit of your brush hoods to the brushes — the alignment bar also permits you to squeeze or panel beat the hoods to a better fit. Ideally the brushes should slide freely with as little clearance as possible. They should be flush against the outboard ends of the can and both should be in the same position relative to each other — if not bend the offending tab until they are identical.
Loosely assemble the can, armature, and endbell no need to replace the screws. Spin the armature with your fingers and allow it to freewheel to rest. Push the shaft in to see if there is clearance between the armature and the endbell bush. The push from the endbell end to see if there is clearance between the armature and the can bush.
What we want is for the armature to spin and self-center itself inside the magnetic field and come to a halt with 0. We do not want it rubbing at either end. Remember, under power the armature will pull hard towards the magnetic centerline and if it is prevented from doing so will bear hard against the offending bearing bush.
This will result in a loss of power to friction. If it is bearing hard against the outboard can bush as is the case in the photo above we need to push this armature spacer further back. But before doing so we need to check the position of the commutator relative to the brush hoods. Photo above — adjusting spacer using a pinion pushing tool. Do this incrementally, checking at each adjustment for clearance or until you run into the limit imposed by the edge of the commutator.
Make sure you do both the same and do so incrementally checking after each adjustment. Bending magnet restraining tabs backwards if necessary to move magnets back. After getting clearance at the outboard end we need to set the clearance at the endbell. In this case it needs to move out which is a lot harder than inwards.
You can shift it using a sharp pair of diagonal cutters as a wedge. Alternatively add motor spacers, which is safer. Some motors simply use loose spacers. When using spacers there should always be a phenolic plastic spacer immediately behind the commutator.
A selection of motor spacers. Dribble superglue into all the edges around the magnets. Glue any place you can get to. Allow to cure. We are going to do the following — in this order:
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